DIY Mid-Century Door Makeover

Sarah Wissinger, of The Surznick Common Room, loves her 1950s ranch, but she felt like some of the doors in her home were lacking her style. These budget-friendly options made a huge impact in her home and gave her doors a much needed makeover.

Read on to see how Sarah gave her door a mid-century makeover in five simple steps!

DIY Mid-Century Door Makeover

Last year my fiancé and I purchased our first home—a cute, little 1950s ranch in Pittsburgh! We love the house’s original three-square window front door, but the interior doors were certainly lacking our cool mid-century style. Instead, we had your basic wooden slab doors that happened to be in pretty rough shape after 65+ years of wear and tear.

During our recent makeover of the master bedroom, we decided that the door needed a major update in order to look as great as the rest of the room. We wanted the cool three-square design of our front door to carry throughout the rest of the house, so we DIYed our own mid-century inspired interior door makeover! Here’s how we did it!

Materials

• Wood Glue
• Moulding
• Interior Slab Door
• Tape
• Paint
• Primer
• Paint Brush
• Roller
• Door Knob
• Door Hardware

Tools

• Miter Saw
• Tape Measure
• Square
• Clamps

Step 1: Measure the Doorway

We measured our doorway to determine the size of the door we would need. We purchased a new wooden slab door from The Home Depot, but if you already have a slab door that’s in good shape, you could use that too! Luckily a new door is an inexpensive upgrade, so we were happy to swap out our old one for a fresh start.

To create the squares on the door, we needed low-profile moulding that we could attach to the door. We found this ¼ in. x ¾ in. pine screen moulding and purchased enough to make six 14-in. squares.

Step 2: Cut the Moulding

With the moulding purchased, it was time to start making cuts. When doing any type of woodworking, it’s not necessarily accuracy that matters—it’s repeatability. We set up a simple and temporary stop-block on a miter saw to ensure that all pieces cut would be 14 in. long. If we were to measure each piece individually, it would have been next to impossible to get a perfect square as a result. This way, even if the stop block wasn’t exactly 14 in. from the blade, every piece would be identical, so they would all fit!

To help prevent splintering the wood with the saw, we tightly taped each piece where the saw would make its cut. This ensures a nice clean edge, which is essential for trim work.

We used the miter saw with the stop-block to cut the pieces at a 45° angle. Always be sure to check your angle with a speed square.

Step 3: Glue the Moulding

After all the pieces were cut, it was time to glue. We first found the center of the door, and marked 7 in. out in all directions so that our middle square was exactly centered. From there, we found midpoints to the top and bottom of the door, marking where the remaining two squares would need to go.

Carefully using an adjustable T-square, we drew our lines, and glued the moulding directly to the door face. To do so, we applied wood glue directly to the back of the moulding pieces and spread the glue evenly with a finger. We carefully applied the pieces to the lines we drew, pressing down gently and cleaning up glue squeeze-out with a rag.

Since this trim is light and won’t need to bear any weight, simply taping the trim down tightly for a couple of hours is all the clamping that needs to be done. Finally, we lightly sanded down the connecting corners of all of the moulding pieces to ensure that all of the seams had a smooth transition and were ready for painting.

Step 4: Paint the Door

After all of the moulding was glued to each side of the door and lightly sanded, we added two coats of Kilz 2 Latex Primer, allowing ample drying time between each coat. We then added two coats of Behr Premium Plus Paint & Primer in Ultra Pure White, Semi-Gloss, again allowing enough drying time between each coat. We brushed on the first coat of primer, but to ensure a smooth finish, we rolled on the paint with a mini fabric roller.

Step 5: Install Hardware

Now that the new door has a fresh coat of white paint, it’s time to add some sleek new hardware to match. We decided to outfit the door with a new matte black doorknob and hinges to tie in to our brass and matte black light fixtures in the room.

We added the Schlage Bowery Privacy Lock Knob in matte black. It was super easy to install and looks great against the white door. We hung the door using new National Hardware matte black hinges, which coordinated great with the new door knob.

We love how this DIY Mid-Century inspired door makeover turned out and we can’t wait to repeat the process on all of the doors throughout our house. It’s a great budget-friendly door makeover that makes a huge impact in our home–we couldn’t be happier!

Shop paint, door knobs, interior doors and moulding to accomplish your own door makeover. Find more inspiration and ideas on our Doors & Windows board on Pinterest. Read more DIY Projects on The Home Depot blog.

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5 Steps to the Perfect Backyard

Ashley Basnight, of Handmade Haven, loves to entertain, but didn’t have a great backyard space to host people. Being the avid DIYer she is, Ashley built her own floating deck!

Read on to see how Ashley created a backyard oasis perfect for entertaining her guests and find out how to build a floating deck and DIY chevron privacy wall.

5 Steps to the Perfect Backyard: Build a Floating Deck with a DIY Chevron Privacy Wall

Everyone dreams of their own backyard oasis, so I was super excited to build a floating deck with a DIY chevron privacy wall! My backyard was pretty sad, and for a girl who loves to entertain, I knew this DIY floating deck would be the perfect project for me!

Let’s take a look at how my backyard looked before the deck. I think we can all agree that this project was a much-needed addition to my home.

If you’re wondering if you can build a floating deck yourself, you can! With no experience at all, I built this floating deck on my own and I’m loving the results.

Materials

• Paver Base/Stone Dust
• Deck Blocks
• 4 x 4 Pressure Treated Lumber
• 2 x 8 Pressure Treated Lumber
• Joist Hangers
• Landscape Fabric
• Lanscape Fabric Staples
• Galvenized Nails
• 3 in. Screws
• 1 x 6 Pressure Treated Lumber
• 2 x 4 Pressure Treated Lumber
• 1 board of 1 x 3 lumber
• 3 in. Galvenized Nails
• 1 1/2 in. Galvenized Nails
• 2 x 4 Connectors
• Bolts
• Solid Color Behr Waterproofing Stain and Sealer – Slate
• Graco Magnum X5
• Paint Brush
• Painters Tape
• Paint Strainer
• 2 Buckets
• UltraShield Naturale Voyager Series Roman Antique Hollow Compositie Decking
• NewTechWood UltraShield Plastic T Clip Hidden Fastener

Tools

• Ryobi Hammer Drill
• 12 in. Sliding Dewalt Miter Saw
• Dewalt Tape Measure
• Ridigd Palm Nailer
• Milwaukee Framing Hammer
• Ryobi Pancake Air Compressor
• Level
• Husky Gloves
• Safety Glasses
• Hearing Protection
• Dewalt Circular Saw
• Respirator Mask
• Shovel
• Bessey Clamps

Step 1: Laying the Foundation

This first step was the most labor intensive step, laying the foundation. With the use of deck blocks and pavor base I laid five 2 x 8 pressure-treated lumber beams down and then connected them together with 4 x 4 posts and 2 x 8 joists using Simpson Strongtie connector brackets and galavenized nails. I used my ridgid palm nailer to secure the brackets and I must say, that palm nailer was a life saver; I couldn’t imagine hammering all those nails in with a hammer.

It is very important to be meticulous as possible on this step; any imperfections in the foundation will show through on your final product. Using a level, I made sure that every part of the foundation was level. My deck was a little more complicating due to it being on a slightly sloped backyard, but with time and patience I got everything level.

Click here for the in-depth blog post and video tutorial on how I laid the foundation.

Step 2: DIY Chevron Privacy Wall

I knew I wanted some kind of privacy wall for my floating deck because the fence just didn’t give me enough privacy. I am pancaked between two houses so this wall just gives a feel of a more intimate deck area.

First, I started by securing four 4 x 4 pressure treated post to the foundation of the deck using crown bolts. Once the posts were secure I used 1 x 6 pressure treated lumber to create the chevron privacy wall. I built it section be section and secured the 1 x 6 pressure treated lumber with 3 in. galvanized nails using my palm nailer.

Click here for the in-depth tutorial on how I built this chevron privacy wall.

Step 3: Laying the Deck Boards

I ended up going with New Tech Wood Composite Decking for the top because I really wanted my patio to feel like a getaway area and I’m glad I went with it. These composite decking boards really make the deck look like it was done by a professional (humble brag).

To secure the decking down I used UltraShield Plastic T Clip Hidden Fasteners. This made the process really simple and I really love that the t clips are hidden. No ugly screw heads on the top of the boards. I just screwed the fasteners into each joist and the boards slide right on the clips.

Step 4: Painting the Floating Deck

I was excited to get to this phase of the deck done because I knew it meant I was that much closer to finishing. I went back and forth on whether to stain or paint my deck and I finally decided to just take a risk and go for black. So glad I did! I used Behr Waterproofing Stain and Sealer Solid Color in the color slate. It’s called stain but the solid color is more of a paint. If you want more of a stain, you can get your color as a semi-transparent.

I applied the paint using the Graco Magnum X5 machine and man, oh man, did this baby perform. I sprayed in small sections and then went back over the paint with a brush. This sprayer definitely cut my spray time down in half and the cleanup didn’t take too long.

The final result was breath-taking.

Finishing the painting was such a fulfilling moment because I knew I had actually pulled it off.

Click here to see the in-depth blog post and video tutorial on how I painted my deck and laid the decking boards.

Step 5: Styling the Deck

The best and final part was styling the deck and enjoying all of the hard work.

Seating

With any backyard oasis, you need plenty of seating, so I knew I wanted a patio sectional that was both stylish and comfortable, so I went with this Beverly 5 –Piece Patio Sectional Seating Set. What sold me on this one was the fact that you can buy additional seats to make it as big as you want. I will definitely be buying some add ons in the near future.

To make the sectional pop I used some colorful pillows and added some contrast with these Wicker Lattice Outdoor Throw Pillows.

You can never have enough places to sit, especially on a 16 ft. x 21 ft. deck, so I got this ottoman pouf for extra seating. I love that you can just move it around anywhere. Makes the perfect deck addition and even better Home Depot has the matching Sand-Geo Throw pillows to tie it all together.

Floating Deck Extras

I absolutely love the wicker on Beverly Patio sectional and to really tie in the sectional I placed this Round Metal Garden Stool in Chalk beside it to serve as an outdoor end table.

Before I even started to build a floating deck I knew I wanted this Hampton Bay 11 ft. LED Offset Patio Umbrella. I am in love. It gives off so much shade for my new deck and gives the deck that cozy feel.

And speaking of cozy, I was happy to move my AZ Patio 38 in. Decorative Steel Fire Pit onto my deck for the upcoming winter months. This fire pit was surprisingly bigger than I had anticipated when I purchased it a while back but the perfect addition for my new deck.

Lighting

In order to enjoy my deck after dark I hung up some Solar Powered Black Nautical String Lights for some deck lighting. I love that these lights are solar so I don’t have to worry about plugging them in.

I was also excited to learn that the Hampton Bay 11-ft. LED Offset Patio Umbrella has solar LED lights. This umbrella lights up the night sky like no other and I love it. The first day I took it out of the box, with some direct sunlight, she was lit up that same night.

Even though the fire pit isn’t necessarily a light, cranking it up definitely brings some illumination to the deck and the warm feeling just ties it all in.

Overall this project was lots of fun, and after some sore muscles and some crazy events, I am happy to be able to say I successfully completed this floating deck! Now it’s time to go enjoy it!

Build a floating deck with materials at The Home Depot. Check out more Backyard Ideas on The Home Depot Blog and follow our Outdoor Living board on Pinterest for more inspiration.

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How to Build a DIY Counter Height Bench

Jennifer Voelkel, of The Craft Patch, searched everywhere for a counter height bench for her kitchen. When she couldn’t find one, she did what she always does—DIY’d one!

Read on to see how Jennifer built a beautiful counter height bench and created extra seating at her kitchen island.

How to DIY a Counter Height Bench

Tools

• Miter Saw
• Table Saw
• Router, ½ in. Roundover Bit and ½ in. Cove Bit
• 3/8 in. Countersink Bit
• Kreg Jig
• Pneumatic Finish Nailer
• Drill
• Clamps
• Oscillating Tool
• Orbital Sander
• Tri-Square or Combination Square

Materials

• Wood Glue
• Kreg Screws, 1½ in.
• Wood Screws, 1½ in.
• Finish Nails, 1½ in.
• Finish Nails, 1 in.
• 3/8 Wood Dowel
• Sandpaper (60, 120, 220, 400 grit)
• Wood Filler
• Latex Paint
• Paint Brush
• Wood Conditioner
• Wood Stain (Briarsmoke and Dark Walnut)
• Wipe On Polyurethane

Lumber

• (3) Pine 1 x 4 x 8 ft.
• (2) Pine 2 x 2 x 8 ft.
• (1) Pine 1 x 2 x 8 ft.
• (1) Poplar 1 x 2 x 8 ft.
• (1) Poplar 1 x 2 x 3 ft.
• (2) Poplar 1 x 4 x 8 ft.

Step 1: Selecting the Wood for Your Counter Height Bench

Selecting the wood you will use depends on the final appearance of the counter height bench. We wanted nice clean lines, but also understood that the base of the bench would be painted. We chose two different types of wood, one type for the base and another for the seat. For the base, we chose select pine boards. This gave us the nice crisp look that was affordable. For the top, we chose some beautiful poplar boards, but you can choose anything you want based upon the look you desire and your own price point.

Step 2: Cutting

We found it most efficient to cut the individual pieces as follows.

Pine Cuts

1 x 4 x 8 ft. boards

• (4) 13 in. pieces and four 6½ in. pieces
• (4) 20 in. pieces and four 3½ in. pieces
• (2) 46½ in. pieces

1 x 2 x 8 ft. boards

• (2) 13½ in. pieces (these will need to be ripped down to a 1 x 1 nominal size (¾ x ¾ actual))

2 x 2 x 8 ft. boards

• (1) 33 in. piece, four 10½ in. pieces, and two 9¾ in. pieces
• (4) 11½ in. pieces

Poplar Cuts

1 x 2 x 8 ft. boards

• (2) 46½ in. pieces

1 x 2 x 3 ft. boards

• (2) 15 in. pieces

Parts

You will notice that 2 x 4s are listed below in the parts list, but not above in the cut list. The reason for this is that we created our own 2 x 4s. We did this because the corners on 2 x 4s are not square but are usually rounded to some degree. Others have overcome this by trimming the edges off, but for us this would have altered many of the other measurements. So rather than adjust all the measurements we glued and clamped two 1 x 4s together to achieve the desired dimensions while maintaining crisp corners. The result is that below in the parts list you will see 2 x 4s listed instead of the more numerous 1 x 4s from above.

Pine Parts

• (2) 2 x 4 – 13 in. feet
• (2) 2 x 4 – 20 in. legs
• (4) 1 x 4 – 3½ in. feet base
• (4) 1 x 4 – 6½ in. substructure cross piece
• (2) 1 x 4 – 46½ in. substructure side piece
• (1) 2 x 2 – 33 in. horizontal support
• (4) 2 x 2 – 10½ in. lower X
• (4) 2 x 2 – 11½ in. upper X
• (2) 2 x 2 – 9¾ in. vertical support
• (2) 1 x 1 – 13½ in. substructure end piece

Poplar Parts

• (2) 1 x 2 – 15 in. short end pieces
• (2) 1 x 2 – 46½ in. long edge pieces
• (4) 1 x 4 – 46½ in. seat

With the exception of the upper and lower X pieces, all of the pieces should be cut square. For the upper and lower X pieces, the cuts will be the same but the lengths will be different. The cut on one end of the X will be 24° and you will have to adjust your miter saw to that angle. The cut on the other end is the 90° reciprocal making it a 66° cut.

Typically, a miter saw can be positioned up to a 45° angle, but not as far as the 66° needed. The solution is simple, however. Rotate your X piece 90°. This puts the short side against the miter fence. Having this short edge against the fence creates instability in the work piece, but again there is a solution. Clamp a piece of scrap wood with square edges to the miter table and use it as a temporary fence to hold the X piece for the 66° cut. As is true any time you’re working with power tools, be very mindful of the position of the saw blade and your fingers.

Step 3: Counter Height Bench Feet

Starting from the bottom up, we began with the feet. The base of the feet is routed using a ½ in. round-over bit and a ½ in. cove bit as shown.

Next the 2 x 4 piece of each foot will need the top corners routed using the ½ in. round-over bit.

The final step for the feet is to glue and nail the base of the feet to the 2 x 4. This is easiest if the pieces are glued and clamped in place before nailing. A pneumatic finish nailer with 1½ in. nails makes the job a snap. The foot base piece extends ¾ in. beyond the end of the 2 x 4 foot.

Step 4: Bench Legs

The legs all need to be screwed together rather than nailed. The first step is to center the legs on the feet. Then beginning on the bottom side of the feet and using a countersink bit, drill two holes into the foot to attach the 2 x 4 leg and one hole for each X part of the lower leg.

Using the layout lines on the top of the feet, glue and screw the 2 x 4 leg to the foot.

Next two counter sink holes will need to be drilled into both the upper and lower X part the leg as shown. Prior to drilling the holes, use a square to draw reference lines on to the leg. These lines will allow you to drill the countersink holes at the proper angle.

Once the 2 x 4 leg is attached, glue and screw the lower X part of the legs in place. Lastly, to ensure that the upper X part of the legs is properly situated, using a flat surface turn the leg upside down with the foot in the air. If your measurement and cuts are correct the upper part of the X should sit flush on the flat surface and should just meet the lower part of the X where they attach to the 2 x 4 leg. Apply glue and screw the upper X into place.

Step 5: Substructure

Lay out the substructure pieces as shown above.

Begin drilling holes using your Kreg jig. Each cross piece will need two holes on each end. After the holes are drilled, use clamps, glue, and Kreg screws along with the accompanying Kreg bit to assemble the substructure of your counter height bench. Lastly glue and nail the 1 x 1 end pieces into place.

Step 6: Center Supports Installation and Assembly

The 2 x 2 horizontal support will be centered front to back in the middle of the 2 x 4 leg and aligned vertically in the middle of the X. A single countersink hole needs to be drilled beginning on the outside of the leg.

The two countersink holes need to be drilled 10¾ in. from each end in the horizontal cross piece. These will be the attachment point for the two vertical support pieces.

Glue, clamp and screw the two vertical support pieces to the horizontal cross piece.

Glue and screw the horizontal cross piece to each leg.

Using the countersink bit, drill holes in the cross pieces of the substructure that correspond with the top of the 2 x 4 leg, the upper X part of the leg, and the vertical support pieces. Glue and screw the substructure to the legs and vertical support pieces.

Step 7: Filling Countersink Holes

Often countersink holes are filled using pre-made buttons or plugs. Because the holes on the X part of the legs are an unusual angle, using pre-made plugs will not work. Instead, we glued a 3/8 in. dowel cut into short pieces into the holes.

Once the glue is dry, cut them flush using an oscillating tool or saw.

Sand the dowels smooth.

Sand the entire bench base before continuing.

Step 8: Seat

Begin by edge gluing and clamping the 1 x 4 seat pieces together. Let dry overnight. The seat will be 14 in. wide and need to be ripped down to 13 ½ in. wide. Using a table saw remove ¼ in. from each long edge. Glue and nail the two long 1 x 2 edge pieces to the seat. Finally, glue and nail the two short end pieces to the seat.

Slip the completed seat over the substructure and using 1 inch nails, secure into place.

Using wood putty fill in exposed nail holes in the seat.

Finish sand by using a large 60-grit sandpaper followed by medium 120-grit and 220-grit sandpapers. Finish the preparation for stain on the bench seat by using a 400-grit sandpaper.

Paint the bench base using satin latex paint.

Stain the bench seat and coat with polyurethane.

Shop lumber at The Home Depot to build your own counter height bench or shop counter height benches at The Home Depot. Read more DIY Projects on The Home Depot Blog.

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3 Easy Holiday Styling Tips

3 Easy Holiday Decorating Tips

As a part of the Holiday Style Challenge here on The Home Depot Blog, we asked 11 talented bloggers to decorate their homes with holiday decorations from The Home Depot. We loved seeing how our blogger partners brought their seasonal spaces to life! We’ve pulled together our favorite easy holiday decorating tips for this season inspired by our Holiday Style Challenge partners.

Incorporating Natural Tones

Gloribell Lebron, of I Don’t Know How She Does It, styled her front porch using greens and browns. She loves the character of her 1930’s Miami home and wanted to enhance it by incorporating greenery and terracotta pots. By adding subtle décor with natural tones, she was able to create a fresh and airy space that made her small porch feel bigger.

Check out how Gloribell transformed her space here and get more holiday decorating tips!

Sara Syrett, of Twelve on Main, decorated her porch with large candy canes and a whole forest of miniature Christmas trees. The natural colors paired with wooden accents and pops of red give her space a rustic, yet festive look. Sara’s favorite design tips are to “use nature-inspired elements, keep the colors simple, and use neutrals.”

Get the full story on how Sara’s holiday traditions inspired her front porch design!

Keeping Things Simple

Leslie Davis, of Deeply Southern Home, loves coming up with simple designs for her home. To achieve an elegant and polished look, Leslie used this gorgeous garland for a statement piece. She also incorporated a “pair of lit wreaths to continue the symmetry for a perfectly balanced, welcoming traditional Christmas front door.”

Read Leslie’s Holiday Style Challenge post to learn how she DIYed those festive, red Christmas tree planters!

Laura Stewart, of Junque Cottage, wanted to let her beautiful tree shine so she kept the decor very minimal. From the perfectly wrapped gifts to the stockings hung with care, this Christmas look is perfectly simple, yet traditional.

Read more about Laura’s living room decor!

Creating Visual Depth

Megan & Stephanie, of Do It Yourself Divas, had the creative idea to use this 3-ring wreath in their mantle decor. The duo used multiple layers of décor including nutcrackers, a pre-lit garland, DIY wreath shutters and handmade stockings, to create visual depth.

Check out Megan & Stephanie’s tutorial on how to create this look!

Kendra Williams, of Momtique, paired a Snowy Pine wreath with vintage French décor pieces. She created a beautiful wintery aesthetic. From the white candles to the vintage books, each piece was carefully chosen to complement one another. By grouping objects of different heights around her mantle, Kendra’s mantle became the focal point of her room.

Read how Kendra created this beautiful winter mantlescape here!

For more DIY holiday decorating tips, see other articles in our Holiday Style Challenge series, and follow our Holiday Style Challenge board on Pinterest.

Visit The Home Depot’s online Holiday Decor Department for more Christmas decor.

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