Build These Craftsman Exterior Shutters to Boost Your Curb Appeal

For an easy curb appeal boost, build these decorative exterior shutters. Rachel Pereira of Shades of Blue Interiors created this DIY tutorial for our DIY Challenge here on The Home Depot Blog. We challenged Rachel to come up with a practical and very doable DIY project with the only stipulation being that it involved the use of lumber.

Just follow along with Rachel’s tutorial to build your own Craftsman style exterior shutters.

DIY Craftsman Exterior Shutters

The classic look of Craftsman style houses has remained popular for decades largely in part because of the quality of materials, the unique and custom features, and the clean, straight lines used that have a modern appeal. For many homes, broken or faded shutters can date the look of a house, as it did with my brick ranch style home.

I decided to make new shutters drawing inspiration from the classic Craftsman style by adding a few design details that make all the difference.

Shutter height can vary from house to house, depending on window size, but the standard width is about 18 inches. These instructions will show you how to make two Craftsman style exterior shutters with the dimensions of 44 inches tall and 18 inches wide. I will make note of the cut differences you will need to make if your window is taller or shorter.

If you are installing your shutters on on top of existing shutters (after removing the rails), as I am, and there is a window inset that your shutters must fit in, make note of their width– you may have to make a small (less than 1 in.) adjustment to the length of the rails as well.

Tools

• Circular Saw or Miter Saw
• Router & router table
• 5/8 in. chamfer router bit
• Pocket hole jig
• Cordless drill
• Cordless brad nailer, 18 guage
• Orbital sander
• 7/64 wood drill bit
• Hammer
• Wood clamps
• Paint brush
• Wood glue
• Wood filler
• 220 grit sandpaper
• Measuring tape
• Safety glasses

Shopping List

• 8- 1 x 4 @ 8 ft. pine (allows for 2 cuts of 44 in. for every 8 ft. length– add or remove depending on height of your window)
• 1¼ in. pocket hole screws, 16
• 1¼ in. nails, 18 gauge
• Exterior paint or Stain (if using stain make sure to use an exterior clear sealant)
• 3 in. Exterior Wood Screws (Use concert anchor screws if attaching to a brick facade)
• 4- 6 in. Decorative gate hinges

Cut List

• 14- 1 x 4 @ 44 in. (this will change depending on the height of your window, but you will need seven boards for each shutter, or 14 for a pair)
• 6- 1 x 4 @ 11 in. (rails)

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Step 1: Route Boards

Select two of the best looking boards that have no knots on the edges.

Use the chamfer bit to rout both edges on one side of the board. Make sure to set your router table fence so that it lines up with the edge of the nut on the top of the bit. These boards will be the center vertical boards in each shutter.

Select four more boards and route one edge on each. These boards will sit adjacent to the center board so that it creates a 2 grooves on either side of the center board.

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Step 2: Build Shutter Frame

Drill two ¾ in. pocket holes on either end of all six boards that are 11 in. long.

To build the first shutter frame, place two stiles (the vertical pieces) parallel, and all three rails (the horizontal pieces) between them, with two of them flush with either end of the stiles. Make sure the pocket holes are facing up.

Apply wood glue to both ends of the top and bottom rails. While using the clamp to ensure the rails are tight between the stiles, attach them together using 1¼ in. pocket hole screws into the top and bottom rails. After the rails are attached on either end, measure and mark the center and attach the center rail at that point on both sides of the stiles.

Repeat this process for the other shutter.

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Step 3: Attach Planks to Back of Shutter

Measure and mark the center of the top and bottom rails. Place the board that was routed on both edges centered over that mark.

Apply wood glue to all three rails and drive several  1¼ in. nails, into the center board at the top, middle, and bottom (where it meets the rails).

Place the adjacent boards next to this center board, making sure the routed edges meet each other and create that little “V” groove on the other side. Use wood glue and nails to attach these boards in the same manner.

Attach the remaining boards on either side using wood glue and several nails. For an 18 in. wide shutter, there will be a slight (¼ in.) difference between the frame width and the five board width of the planked back.

Repeat this process for the other shutter.

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Step 4: Stain or Paint Shutter

If painting the shutters, you can fill large textured knots in the wood with wood filler.

Sand the surface of the shutters smooth to remove any splinters or rough spots.

Apply two coats of exterior high quality paint and let it dry completely.

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Step 5: Remove Old Shutters or Remove Old Rails

Use a hammer to pry off old rails if you’re installing the new shutters on top of the old shutters.

If you’re removing shutters that are not in a window inset, mark the top and bottom of the shutters with chalk so you know where to place the new shutter. Then, use a screwdriver to remove screws attaching the old shutters to the house.

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Step 6: Attach New Shutters to House

Using a 7/64 drill bit, pre-drill four holes in each corner of each shutter, about 1 ½ in. from both edges. If attaching the shutters to a brick facade or anything other than wood, you will want to have someone hold the shutter in place, making sure it is level and lined up with the chalk lines, and pre-drill holes into the facade using a concrete/masonry bit.

Attach the shutters into the house using 3 in. exterior wood screws. Drive screws in a little extra so that the holes can be filled with wood filler and once dry, painted or stained over.

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Step 7: Attach Decorative Gate Hinges

Place the gate hinges flush with the bottom, closest to the window and mark the screw-holes on the hinge. Pre-drill holes at those marks using the 7/64 drill bit. Do the same for the top and the other shutter. Attach the hinges using a cordless drill and the screws provided with the hinges.

While the “before” was rather sad, the “after” really looks much more updated and modern, with the classic design of the craftsman style shutters.

And there you have it! Two brand new shutters installed!

In addition to building these shutters, I went ahead and painted our door to match the same color, added a wreath and a decorative number sign by the door. The cedar sunburst door mat is one I made as part of The Home Depot DIY Workshop and the tutorial can be found on my blog here.

I will have a tutorial up soon for this number sign with planter!

The flower beds by our house that were filled with overgrown boxwoods, got a nice trim and a fresh layer of brown mulch.

I also added back onto the porch my little bistro table and chairs. I love how the shutters look next to them!

One last before and after so you can see how much curb appeal is added for less than $100 in lumber!

Rachel Pereira employs her artistic passion through hand-painted furniture makeovers, budget-friendly interior design, and DIY home decor and crafts on her blog, Shades of Blue Interiors. She lives in St. Louis with her husband and three children.

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Here’s How To Be Storage Savvy

The Crafty Craft Room

When you have larger items or a bulk amount of materials, one easy solution for keeping them organized are with storage totes. Their deep design and snap-on lids let you fill up to 70 quarts of space with whatever you want. If you buy them in different colors, try sorting the items or materials by color for even more precise organization.

The great thing about these storage totes is that you can stack them right on top of each other. Their indented lids prevent totes on top from sliding around. But if you don’t want to stack them, try storing them on a plastic shelving unit. You’ll open up lots of space, plus you’ll have the top shelf to keep smaller items on.

Also seen in this room: Martha Stewart Fabric Drawers, Flip Top Storage Totes, White Pegboard.

Clever and Colorful Crates

Bringing more creativity and color to your home or office can serve a larger purpose than just adding style. Try using these stackable baskets to keep shoes, books or stationary in. You can create an entire shelving unit by stacking them high. Or, if you want to keep them low, slide them beneath a table or bed.

Multicolored crates are also a great way to create your own chest of drawers. Store them on a small metal shelving unit to have quick access to your most-used supplies.

Tough Totes for Garages

Let’s face it, the garage is probably the most neglected part of any home. Luckily, as with most spaces, organization can be easy with a few rugged totes. With 27 gallons of storage capacity, you can clear up lots of room with just one. Add a few more, along with a steel garage shelving unit, and you’ll be able to to access areas you haven’t been able to in years.

You can also keep your shoes, gear or tools in one easy location with stackable bins. Their extra-large carrying handles and weight limit of 100 pounds provide plenty of reasons to use them around your garage.

Also seen in this garage: Rubbermaid FastTrack Multipurpose Kit.

Find more simple storage solutions on The Home Depot Blog’s Storage Ideas. For further inspiration, check out our Pinterest.

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Rust-Oleum DIY Stained Wooden Desk

DIY Stained Wooden Desk

Get prepared for the new school year with an organized study space. Complete with a gorgeous two-tone stained desk, this rustic-inspired space is both functional and easy on the eyes. Here’s how you can easily recreate this desk’s look with Varathane Wood Stain.

Materials

• Varathane 3X Premium Wood Stain-Barn Red
• Varathane 3X Premium Wood Stain-Carbon Gray
• Varathane Triple Thick Polyurethane-Satin
• Unfinished Desk
• Lint-free Rags
• High Quality Synthetic Bristle Brush
• Drop Cloth
• Tack Cloth
• Sandpaper 120, 150 and 180 Grit
• Gloves

Step 1 – Drop Cloth

Always work in a well-ventilated area and use a drop cloth to protect your workspace from drips and spills.

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Step 2 – Sand Desk

First, you’ll need to sand the entire desk. Start with the lowest grit sandpaper and work your way up through the 3 grit levels.

TIP: To ensure the stain penetrates into the wood properly, always sand in the direction of the wood grain.

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Step 3 – Wipe Away Dust with Tack Cloth

After you’ve finished sanding the surface with each grit of sandpaper, wipe away the residual sanding dust with a tack cloth. The surface should be clear of any dust prior to sanding using the next level of sandpaper and before applying stain to the surface.

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Step 4 – Apply Your First Stain (Red Top)

Stir your Varathane 3X Premium Wood Stain in Barn Red thoroughly with a stir stick. Using a clean lint-free cloth, liberally apply the stain onto the top of the desk. Work in manageable sections and always apply the stain in the direction of the wood grain.

TIP: Varathane Wood Stain does not require multiple coats to achieve color. Only one coat is necessary.

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Step 5 – Wipe Away (Red)

Allow stain to sit on the surface for 3-5 minutes. Using a clean lint-free cloth, wipe away the excess stain from the surface.

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Step 6 – Stain & Wipe Away (Gray Bottom)

Now you’re ready to apply stain to the bottom portion of the desk. Repeat steps four and five, this time applying your Carbon Gray stain to the legs of the table. Then, let the table dry completely for one hour before protecting with the Varathane Triple Thick Polyurethane.

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Step 8 – Polyurethane Topcoat

Once the stain dries for one hour, stir your Varathane Triple Thick Polyurethane with a stir stick. Then, apply it with a high quality synthetic bristle brush in one smooth, even coat. Be sure to brush in the direction of the wood grain.

TIP: Varathane Triple Thick Polyurethane protects your surface in just one coat. No need to apply more than one, saving you valuable time. Avoid overloading brush when applying. A very thick coat is not necessary. The product will naturally build a thick finish.

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Step 9 – Let Dry, Replace Drawers Etc.

After you’ve applied your protective polyurethane topcoat, let the table dry completely for 48 hours. Once the desk is dry, replace the drawers and hardware. Now it’s time to hit the books!

To complete the organized study space, we added a DIY whiteboard made with Rust-Oleum Dry Erase Paint and Ultra Cover 2X Spray in Khaki, chalkboards made with Rust-Oleum Chalkboard Spray and Ultra Cover 2X Spray in Gloss Ivory. We also made a picture frame spray painted with Ultra Cover 2X Spray in Khaki. Rustic touches were added by hanging wire baskets and a cage light, both spray painted with Universal Aged Metallic Spray in a Rust finish.

Browse all Rust-Oleum products available at The Home Depot. Follow our Easy DIY Projects board on Pinterest for more DIY ideas.

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Build This Modern C-Base Side Table in a Weekend!

This C-base side table looks so gorgeous, it’s hard to believe it’s a DIY project.

Alexi Politis, of Seeking Alexi built it for our DIY Challenge. We challenged her to come up with a fun and doable weekend project, with the only stipulation that she use lumber.Alexi’s side table scoots right up next to the sofa, making it convenient and useful. Her clever way of stacking the wood pieces gives it a sophisticated, modern look. Just follow Alexi’s step-by-step instructions to make your own C-base side table.

Modern C-Base Side Table

I’ve been in desperate need for some cute side tables near my couch. My coffee table is cushioned, which means I can’t set any drinks or food on it for fear of it toppling over. When The Home Depot asked me to create something with lumber, I knew I needed to create some end tables, I just had to decide on what to make!

This table is now the perfect addition to my modern yet natural family room. It is really versatile in appearance because it would be gorgeous left unstained (but still sealed), it could be lightly painted (I would recommend watering down the paint so you can still see the grain, though), or could be stained even darker!

This C-base side table is a one-weekend project if you have the perseverance to do all the sanding in one sitting. I believe in you!

Materials

• Miter Saw
• 15 Select Pine Boards, 1 x 2 x 8 beams
• At least 4 Bar Clamps (more would be great, though)
• 1 bottle of Wood Glue
• Electric Sander
• 1 box of Sanding Disks
• 1 container of Pre-Stain Conditioner
• Wood Stain
• Paint Brush
• Wood Sealant

Step 1: Cut the Wood

Cut the wood to-size using a miter saw. These dimensions are for the specific height of my couch, so alter them accordingly to match your couch height.

Cut 15 beams to 8½ in., 15 beams to 10 in., and 30 beams to 25 in.

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Step 2: Glue the Wood Pieces Together

Glue the table together! You’ll apply a line of wood glue to each piece as you lay them. Go quickly, and if you have two people, that would be easier so the wood doesn’t move around after you’ve glued it.

Basically, you interlace the beams so the ends fit together with the lengths matching every other layer.

For example, starting on the left, you would lay a 10 in. beam down, and perpendicularly butt it up to the long 25 in. beam, then perpendicularly butt it up against a 8½ in. on the right side coming down (reference image above).

Then starting on the left again and lying on top of the first layer, you would lay a 8½ in., so it lies on top of the previous 10 in. beam. It won’t completely cover it, obviously, because it’s shorter.

With that last 1½ in., you will cover it with the long 25 in. beam. This time it will hang over the previous long 25 in. beam by 1½ in., so that you can fit the last (for this layer) 10 in. beam perpendicularly down from that, and it will match flush to the edge.

Comment on my blog if you have questions about the layout, but I bet once you get started you’ll understand right away!

Align all the wood as perfectly as you can! This is going to be easier if you went really fast stacking the pieces together.

Clamp the wood as tightly and perfectly as you can! Be meticulous with this step. And use an extra pair of hands still, that will help make the rest of the steps easier.

Let the wood dry according to the instructions on the wood glue you used.

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Step 3: Patch any Large Holes in the Wood

Fill in any large holes with small wood pieces and some wood glue. I was not very meticulous when I glued my wood together, so the gaps you see in my table are larger than I would have liked. But it’s nothing that some wood glue can’t fix.

Let these spots dry thoroughly before you move on to Step 4!

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Step 4: Sand the Table

Sand! Like, a lot. This part is the most annoying but the most rewarding! Just do it like ripping off a bandage– power through, and sand it all in one session if you can.

You want to start with the most rough sanding disk you have; I used a 60 grit, first.

After you’ve sufficiently sanded all the rough grooves and mismatched areas, you’ll want to fill the holes. Sometimes you might need to add a skinny wood piece if you have any large gaps like I did.

After the wood glue has dried, back to sanding with the 60 grit sanding disk.

Then, sand some more with the 100 grit until it’s sufficiently smooth.

Then move to the 150 grit and your table is probably feeling like smooth, smooth butt’ah now! Love how the table feels at this stage.

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Step 5: Stain the Table

Clean off your wood with a dry rag so the sawdust is all gone. Then condition your wood with a pre-stain conditioner. This will treat the wood so the stain applies evenly. Paint it on evenly, let it sit for about 10 minutes, then and wipe off the extra with a dry rag.

Then apply the stain! Apply generously with a paint brush, then let it sit for about 5-15 minutes, depending on how dark you want it. Then wipe the excess off with a dry rag.

If you want it darker, repeat this step.

Finally, seal the side table with a sealant so it doesn’t scuff your floors.

That’s it! Your new C-base side table.

See? I told you it was a pretty easy weekend project!

Alexi Politis of Seeking Alexi is a design-aholic, Instagram junkie, wannabe blogger, novice letterer, master DIYer, expert chip-snacker, pretend traveler, semi-outdoors-(wo)man, football supporter, church-goin’ person, self-proclaimed foodie, domestic-lovin’, & hugely motivated creative director, graphic designer and web designer.See more DIY projects here on The Home Depot Blog, and follow our Easy DIY Projects board on Pinterest.

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How to Build a Rustic Farmhouse Dining Table

This DIY Farmhouse dining table is simply gorgeous, and you can build it in a weekend.

Jen Woodhouse of the DIY and design blog The House of Wood came up with this project for our DIY Challenge series. We challenged her to come up with a fun and doable project, the only stipulation being that she use, appropriately enough, wood.

Just follow Jen’s step-by-step instructions, and you’ll soon have your own lovely farmhouse dining table.

Farmhouse Dining Table

This DIY Farmhouse Table is the perfect beginner-level building project. Building a dining table doesn’t get any easier – using minimal tools with pre-fabricated furniture legs and off-the-shelf lumber, you can build this table in an afternoon and be hosting your family gathering by dinnertime!
Tools
• Tape Measure
• Speed Square
• Pencil
• Circular Saw
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Clamps

Materials
• (3) 1 x 4 x 8 ft. Boards
• (5) 1 x 8 x 6 ft. Boards
• (1) 1 x 6 x 8 ft. Boards
• (4) 29-inch Furniture Legs
• (8) Simpson Strong-Tie® A21Z Angles
• 1 ¼-inch Coarse Thread Pocket Hole Screws
• Wood Glue

Cut List
• Long Aprons – (2) 1 x 4 @ 63 inches
• Short Aprons – (2) 1 x 4 @ 25 inches
• Tabletop Supports – (3) 1 x 4 @ 26 ¾ inches
• Tabletop Boards – (5) 1 x 8 @ 67 inches
• Breadboard Ends – (2) 1 x 6 @ 36 ¼ inches

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Step 1: Cut the Boards and Drill Pocket Holes

Use the cut list above and cut all of the boards except the breadboard ends to length. Using a pocket hole jig, drill two ¾-inch pocket holes at the ends of each 1 x 4 apron. Also, drill pocket holes along one edge of the aprons, spacing each pocket hole about 6 – 8 inches apart. Drill pocket holes into the ends and edges of the tabletop boards as well.

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Step 2: Attach the Short Aprons to the Furniture Legs

Clamp the furniture leg to the work surface. Apply wood glue to the end of the 1 x 4 short apron and position the apron at the top of the leg, centering the apron on the leg so that the apron is slightly inset. Tip: Use a scrap piece of ¾ inch material to support the apron in the center of the leg.

Using a drill/driver, fasten the apron to the leg with 1 ¼-inch pocket hole screws. Do this for both sides.

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Step 3: Build the Table Carcass

Build the carcass by attaching the long aprons to the legs with 1 ¼-inch pocket screws and wood glue. Ensure that the pocket holes along the edge are facing up, to attach the tabletop in later steps.

Check for square by measuring the diagonal dimensions. These measurements should match. Adjust as needed.

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Step 4: Attach the Tabletop Supports

Drill ¾-inch pocket holes into the ends and edges of the 1 x 4 tabletop supports and attach to the long aprons with 1 ¼-inch pocket hole screws. Evenly space the supports as shown, ensuring the pocket holes along the edge are facing up.

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Step 5: Build the Tabletop

Clamp the 1 x 8 boards to the work surface and attach the boards, edge-to-edge, with 1 ¼-inch pocket hole screws.

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Step 6: Trim the Tabletop

Clamp a straight edge close to the end of the planked tabletop and use a circular saw to trim any uneven boards so that the whole tabletop end is flush and straight.

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Step 7: Cut and Attach the Breadboard Ends

Measure the short ends of the planked tabletop and cut the breadboards to fit. Drill ¾-inch pocket holes along one edge of the breadboards and attach to the tabletop with 1 ¼-inch pocket hole screws.

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Step 8: Attach the Tabletop to the Carcass

Place the tabletop (pocket holes facing you) on the work surface and center the carcass upside down on the tabletop. Attach the carcass to the tabletop with 1 ¼-inch pocket hole screws. Attach four angle braces as shown, for added support to the breadboard ends.

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The Completed Farmhouse Dining Table

Set the Table, Gather ‘Round, and Enjoy Your Meal!

In addition to being a Nashville singer/songwriter, Jen Woodhouse is a talented decorator and DIYer. Check out her lifestyle and design blog The House of Wood for DIY projects and plenty of great decorating ideas.

Follow our Easy DIY Projects board on Pinterest for more DIY projects and ideas.

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