Create a Custom Statement Wall

We all know statement walls can transform any room. Mandi Gubler, of Vintage Revivals, shares her tips for mixing wallpaper, wood and paint to create a one-of-a-kind design. Keep reading to learn more about this unique custom statement wall!

Create a Custom Statement Wall

I’m a huge fan of statement walls, they’re kind of my love language (if I love you, you get a statement wall…Oprah style.) When you’re embracing the statement wall, paint is usually the go-to medium, it’s easy to use, you can always cover it up if your results fall short of your glorious vision, and it’s inexpensive.

But guys, I’m about to change your mind a little, because wallpaper is here and its here to stay.

Find Your Inspiration

The inspiration behind my daughter’s room is Disney’s It’s a Small World (specifically the one at Disneyland cause I just can’t quit that white and gold exterior.) For four years I’ve been itching to do this room and I’m so happy to finally see the vision come to life!

For this statement wall, I used some paint, wood, and wallpaper to create the design. Mixing wallpaper with other materials and patterns is easy, you just need the right kind. I painted the buildings white and then filled some in with this gold speckled removable wallpaper.

I’m loving how reflective this wallpaper is!

HomeDepot.com has a huge wallpaper selection. It was really hard for me to narrow it down because I wanted to use all of them!

Ultimately I went with the Splatter pattern from Bobby Berk because it reminded me of the texture that is on the exterior from Disney’s It’s a Small World. I am so happy with how it turned out!

Here’s what you need to know about wallpaper on HomeDepot.com. First and most importantly the patterns that they have available are killer. They’re extremely on trend and have designers like Bobby Berk, Genevive Gorder, and a little lady by the name of Joanna Gaines. You may have heard of her.

Temporary wallpaper is the best of both worlds. You get the bold and statement-making patterns that can only come from wallpaper, and it’s extremely easy to remove, damage free, from your walls. It’s also great for novice wallpaper DIYers because it’s re-positionable.

Mixing Wallpaper Patterns

Mixing materials is just one way to use wallpaper, you can also mix different wallpaper patterns!

Here are my tips:

1. Unless you have a way to physically separate the wallpapers from each other, use natural space divisions as your guide. For example, use one type of paper on the walls in a bedroom and a second pattern in a closet. Or use one in your entryway and another in your living room, as long as the walls aren’t connected, you’re good!
2. Find papers that have a similar vibe. The peonies, splatter and thermoscad wallpaper patterns are all white and gold and will work together perfectly.
3. Wallpaper can be a little intimidating if you’ve never used it before. If you’re interested in dipping your toes in the water, try using it in smaller space like a half bath.
4. Don’t be afraid to go bold. One of the reasons that wallpaper is so magical is because it makes a massive statement. This is why using removable paper is so great because you’re not married to it forever! I love something bold like this Shatter geometric print. Or colorful like this mustard yellow geo print!

To get more info on Vintage Revivals room makeover and all of the furniture details (yes, they’re all from Home Depot!) check out Vintage Revivals here! Find more bedroom inspiration on The Home Depot Blog.

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The Ultimate DIY Teepee for Kids

Ashley Thurman, of Cherished Bliss, wanted to complete her son’s room by adding a fun element, and this DIY teepee was the perfect addition.

Follow Ashley’s step-by-step tutorial to build your own!

The Ultimate DIY Teepee for Kids

This year is about finishing our house! We bought this house late fall of 2016 and it was just about as builder grade as you can get. Over the last year we’ve slowly been trying to bring our style into each space of our home. Today I’m here to show you a fun element we’ve added to my youngest boy’s new bedroom – A DIY Teepee.

I went back and forth trying to decide if I wanted to do a no-sew version of this tee pee, or if I wanted to actually sew it. I haven’t sewed in years so it was pretty difficult to sway me, but we are in fact going to be sewing today! If you’ve never sewn before, don’t worry this project isn’t all about precision. The only thing you need to know how to do is follow a straight line!

Let’s get started!

Materials

• 6 ft. x 9 ft. Drop Cloth
• Scissors
• Straight Edge (I used a 1 x 2 I had on hand)
• Tape Measure
• Sewing Machine and necessary accessories
• Thread
• (3) ¾ in. x 10 ft. PVC Pipe cut to 5 ft. sections
• Hack Saw
• Iron

I suggest waiting until you have sewn together your teepee before cutting the pipe just in case you should have any slight discrepancies in the length of the pockets for your PVC pipe. This tee pee was designed to be slightly smaller than a typical tee pee so it can be enjoyed in smaller bedrooms. You can always adjust the size if needed.

Use a ½-in. seam allowance unless otherwise stated.

Before you Start

Prewash the drop cloth to give it a softer feel. I washed mine on the longest, hottest setting with an extra rinse cycle using 1 cup of bleach. Then tumble dry on the highest heat setting.

Step 1: Cut Fabric

Let’s begin by cutting the fabric. You will need six “triangle panels,” five of the panels will be identical, and the last one will be used as the entrance to the teepee. You can cut one triangle panel out of the drop cloth with the bottom edge lined up on the hemmed side, and then use it as a pattern for the other four. See the diagram below on how to cut all panels.

Step 2: Sew the “Door” Panel

Assemble the door panel following the diagram above. The two flaps will overlap.

Press the interior raw edge of the two panels (the straight edge) so you have a finished edge on the opening. Then lay the two flaps side by side and overlapping following the diagram below, and stitch a straight line across the top. Make sure the top of the two flaps now equals the bottom of the top section.

Place the bottom portion (the two you just sewed together) and the top portion with right sides together and stitch across the top following the diagram below.

Once done it should look like this.

This should leave you with a panel the same size as the other five, but with an open seam in the middle (the entrance to the teepee).

Step 3: Assemble Panels

Begin sewing the panels, right sides together, by lining up the edges and sewing a straight line to join them (be sure to backstitch the ends for added strength). I highly suggest starting at the bottom and sewing towards the top. We will eventually be trimming the top, so it’s more important the bottom lines up. Continue until you have all five of the full-sized panels assembled.

Once that is done, attach the door panel on both sides. Make sure you are still sewing right sides together. This should give you a cone shaped tube. Now can turn everything right side out.

Step 4: Create Pockets for PVC Pipe

Next, we are going to create the pockets for the PVC Pipe by sewing a tube. Your tee pee needs to be turned right side out for this step. Once that is done, take each seam and press it with the wrongs sides together with the seam on the edge. Measure out 1 in. and stitch a straight line all the way up the tent. Again, make sure you start at the bottom and work your way up. This is essentially creating a pocket for the pole to go in, with your raw edges inside the pocket.

Once you get towards the top of the tent you will notice that the “pockets” we are making will start to cross each other, that’s ok! You haven’t messed up, I promise! Just keep going until you do this for all six seams.

Step 5: Trim Excess Fabric

Once you are done sewing the pockets you will be left with extra fabric at the top of your tee pee. To figure out how much to remove, I inserted my PVC pipe into the pockets as far as possible while making sure they were all even at the top. Then I cut the excess off.

Step 6: Cut and Insert PVC Pipes

Measure the length of the tube where the PVC Pipe will be inserted and cut your pipe to that length. Once all pieces are cut, insert each pipe into the pockets, making sure all pipes are cut to the same length even if the fabric varies slightly.

Mine ended up being around 48 in.

Step 7: Spread the poles out and allow the top ends to fan out

After all your pipes have been inserted, it’s time to set it up. Just start spreading out the poles until your teepee is fully stretched out.

Optional: If you would like to be able to tie the door flaps back, cut a simple slit in the drop cloth and use leather string to tie the fabric open.

I also decided to stencil a few letters numbers on our teepee for a slightly aged/industrial look. This is totally optional, and obviously can be customized to whatever you like.

And that is how to build this fun little DIY teepee! All that’s left is to let your little ones enjoy it!

Shop materials to make your own DIY teepee for your little ones at The Home Depot. Get more inspiration for your child’s room and find nursery ideas on The Home Depot Blog. Follow our Nursery Ideas board on Pinterest, too.

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Creating a Cozy Kid’s Reading Nook

This cozy bedroom kid’sreading nook was created by Charlotte Smith of At Charlotte’s House.

Using supplies from The Home Depot, Charlotte built the perfect place for her kids to play games or read. Check out Charlotte’s full tutorial on creating the best reading nook for kids ever!

Creating a Cozy Reading Nook for Kids

The one thing that my kids like more than anything is a little nook in which they can curl up and play games or read. In the past this meant draping blankets over chairs and tables, but now they have their own permanent kid’s reading nook that’s handmade using supplies from The Home Depot!

Materials

• (5) pine 1 x 3 boards, 8 ft.
• (2) underlayment, 48 in. x 48 in.
• (1) ¾ in. plywood, 4 ft. x 8 ft.
• 1 ¼ #8 Trim Head Screws (2 100-nail boxes)
• Kreg pocket screw system
• Jigsaw
• Drill
• Sander 43-in. piece of scrap wood (for compass)

Cut List

1 x 3 pine

• (4) 42-in.
• (4) 41 ¼-in.
• (6) 12-in.
• (3) 12 ½-in.

¾-in. plywood

• (4) 4 in. arcs at 42-in. diameter

48 x 48 Birch Underlayment

• (18) 4-inch strips

Our kid’s reading nook is 42 in. high, 42 in. deep and 48 in. wide. I used basic pine 1 x 3 boards, 1 sheet of ¾-in. plywood and 2 sheets of 48 x 48 underlayment.

Step 1: Cut the plywood “ribs”

In order to draw a perfect quarter circle, I made a quick compass using a scrap piece of 1 x 2. I drilled a small hole for a nail at one end and two larger holes for a pencil 38 in. down the board and 42 in. down the board. I lightly nailed the board in place, and then drew my arc with the pencil.

Using a jigsaw, I slowly cut out four arcs from my sheet of wood.

Step 2: Create right angle supports for each arc

Use pocket holes to screw one 41 ¼-in. board into the 42-in. board at a 90 degree angle. Use pocket holes to screw each end of this corner angle into the quarter circle plywood arc. Make sure that pocket holes are on the underside and backside of the corner angle.

Step 3: Cut underlayment into strips

Use a table saw or circular saw with a straight edge guide to cut the underlayment into 18 4-in. strips.

Lightly sand the edges of all your wood.

Step 4: Cut support braces

Cut 12-in. and 12 ½-in. support braces from 1 x 3s. Drill pocket holes into either end of each support piece.

Step 5: Assemble the nook

This nook is big enough that it needs to be assembled on site. I started by connecting two of the arcs with the 12-in. 1 x 3s.  Repeat with the remaining two arcs.

With everything lined up, I connected the two arc pieces with the three 12 ½-in. boards. I had to stagger these middle pieces slightly in order to screw into the pine boards and not the plywood arcs.

Step 6: Add the underlayment roof

Starting at the top corner, I lined up the first strip of underlayment with the edge. I used a 3/8-in. bit to predrill two holes along each plywood rib. I finished by screwing the board in place with the 1 ¼-in. trim head screws (these typically come with the necessary star bit). Repeat, working your way down the arc until the entire nook is covered with underlayment strips.

Step 7: Lights

I added two LED puck lights to the inside of the nook as well as a fun color-changing rope light. Because both are LED, I don’t worry about the lights heating up and, needless to say, the kids love the effect of the changing rainbow lights! I used copper tubing clips to hold the rope light in place.

Final Reveal

I chose underlayment because it had such a lovely wood grain and I wanted to leave it unfinished, but there’s no reason that the surface of this nook couldn’t be painted or stained as desired. The fox print hanging above it has the perfect colors to coordinate with both the wooden nook and the rest of the décor!

My kids all love to curl up in this nook and it’s been the first place they head each afternoon after school. They can easily sit inside the nook leaning up against the wall with feet outstretched. I layered shaggy rugs so the inside is soft and comfortable for them.

The addition of those neutral patterned curtains also adds to the cozy inviting feeling of the space. Lots of texture and pattern to help the sleek wooden form stand out!

Filled with throw pillows (also here, here and here), cozy blankets and their favorite books in a graphic new book bin, this little hideaway is perfect for the whole gang. I added a pair of poufs for some extra perches so everyone can get comfortable.

Create a DIY reading nook for kids with materials at The Home Depot. Find other ideas and inspiration for your children’s room and play spaces on The Home Depot Blog. Follow our Nursery Ideas board on Pinterest.

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