This industrial style console table looks like it’s made from iron pipe. But Timisha Porcher, of ToolBox Divas, saved money by using PVC pipe, instead.
Timisha shares her step-by-step tutorial for this cool pipe project, and as a bonus, shows us how she decorated it for Christmas.
DIY Industrial Console Table
I love furniture that incorporates both iron piping and wood. It’s the combination of rustic and industrial elements that creates a look that’s both warm and modern. Unfortunately for me, the cost of iron pipe can sometimes make those types pipe projects a challenge. So, when presented with the challenge of creating something using PVC piping, I immediately thought, why not simulate iron with PVC?
So, here’s what I did.
Materials
- (1) 1 x 10 x 10 Common Board
- (3) ½ in. x 10 ft. Sch. 40 PVC Pipes
- (4) ½ in. Caps
- (11) ½ in. Tees
- (9) ½ in. Couplings
- (4) ½ in. 90-Degree Elbows
- Spray Paint
- Stain
- Nails
Tools
Cut List
PVC cuts:
- (4) 15 in.
- (10) 1½ in.
- (4) 16 in.
- (1) 17 in.
- (4) 5½ in.
- (5) 6½ in.
- (4) 8½ in.
- (1) 9¾ in.
1 x 10 x 10 Common Board cuts:
- (1 ) 44 in.
- (2) 26 in.
Holiday Decorations
- Home Accents HolidayLit Vine Gift Boxes (3-Piece)
- Martha Stewart Living5 in. Sled
- Martha Stewart Living7 in. Car with Bottlebrush Tree in Cherry Satin
- Martha Stewart Living8 in. Traditional Lantern with Red Bow
- Home Accents Holiday17 in. H Glazed Red Standing Reindeer
- Home Accents Holiday12 in. H Red Glazed Sitting Reindeer
- Martha Stewart LivingAlpine Holiday Ornament (80-Count)
- Martha Stewart Living30 in. Unlit Winterberry Artificial Wreath with Red Poinsettias, Berries and Pinecones
- Holiday Floral arrangement from the garden center
Step 1: Cut the shelving
Using a miter saw I cut the a 1 x 10 x 12 common board to size as outlined in the cut list.
My miter saw is only a 10 in. and it isn’t a sliding saw. To safely and fully cut a board that was slightly larger than my saw, I cut it on one side then flipped it over to fully cut the piece. When doing this, you want to make sure you have your board fully stabilized on both ends of the cutting table. If you do not have a miter saw, these pieces can be cut at your local Home Depot store.
Step 2: Cut the PVC piping
I used a simple ratcheting PVC pipe cutter to cut the pipe down to size. Using a chalk pen, I marked off the cut line on the piping.
Step 3: Spray paint the PVC piping
This is the fun and crafty part.
Using scrap wood, 2½ in. nails and an old box I created a spray paint station for the PVC. By placing the pipes on the nails I was able to create a station that allowed the pipes to be in a standing position.
The challenge came when I needed to spray paint the longer 15 and 16 inch pieces. The 2½ in. screws were too short to stabilize longer pieces. For the longer pieces, I actually stood them up in an old flower pot. I used two cans of Rust-Oleum Universal 11 oz. All Surface Metallic Satin Oil Rubbed Bronze Spray Paint and Primer in One.
Step 4. Drill the insert holes into the shelves
Using a template, I created using a cardboard box top I marked the drill holes in to the three shelves. I used a ⅞-in. Spade or paddle bit to create the holes to run the pipe through the shelves.
For the 26 in. shelves, the two drill points start 2 inches from the edge and are 6½ in. apart. The middle drill point is 3 inches from the edge and 19¼ in. from the other two drill points in the middle of the board.
Step 5: Assemble the base
Regular clear PVC cement can be used for this project. However, I recommend doing a dry fitting. I even found when working with other PVC projects glue wasn’t entirely necessary because the pipe fittings can be rather snug at times.
In fact, if you find that you have a particularly tight fit and you cannot remove a tee from a pipe or a coupling from a pipe a hair dryer works great in loosening any fittings. Simply run a hair dryer over the area in which you would like to separate for about 30 seconds to a minute and wearing slip resistant gloves twist.
The use of a mallet or hammer can also be helpful ensuring the pipe fits snuggly into the pipe fittings. Just keep in mind, it will not be easy to remove once its fitted in place.
Step 6: Insert the bottom right shelf
Insert the right lower shelf. Don’t worry if the paint gets scraped during this process of inserting the pipes through the holes on the self. In fact, expect some of the paint to scrap off during this process. You can touch up the paint once the shelves are all put in place.
Ensure that the shelf is level.
Step 7: Insert the middle left shelf
In a similar fashion as the bottom right shelf, I attached the middle left shelf and ensured it was level.
It’s imperative to ensure the shelves are level at each stage.
Step 8: Attach the top shelf
Place the final 1½ in. pipes into the four leg couplings, insert the top shelf and cap off the exposed piping.
Step 9: Sand, stain and touch up the paint
Finally, I rounded the edges with a sander to remove any sharp edges and stained the shelves.
I realized I probably should have sand and stained before installing everything, but I didn’t know what finish I wanted until it was completely done. I was being a little indecisive. I ended up staining the shelves in a Honey Pecan by Minwax and I added a thick polyurethane coat to the shelves. Then I touched up the areas of the PVC that got scraped during the process of adding the shelves with some acrylic metallic paint.
The completed rustic console table. The great thing about using PVC, besides the fact that it is super cheap, it creates a project that is super lightweight and easy to move. Also with a little paint, it looks just like iron.
And just in time for the holidays, it pairs perfectly with my holiday décor. I was able to display my beautiful red ceramic deer and my vintage styled car and sled.
Browse The Home Depot’s pipes and fittings and appearance board for the materials you’ll need for your next pipe project.
Follow our Projects Using Pipe board on Pinterest for more pipe project ideas and tutorials.
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